Mike B. made his first pilgrimage to the birthplace of Alpinism this August for ten days of climbing with Larry.  Having just arrived the day before, Mike wanted a reasonably short objective for our first day.  We chose the classic SE ridge of the Aiguille de l'Index.  This 500' climb is accessible with a 15 minute approach and offers some incredible, moderate climbing.  This photo shows the spire, but the climb is on the opposite side. This photo shows the SE ridge on...

Read More

For the second year in a row, John Gould of Boston, joined Larry for a week of climbing in the Alps.  After a great week of climbing in Chamonix last year, they decided to break up this year's trip with a few days in the Swiss alps and a few days in Chamonix. . They met in the charming Swiss village of Wengen, in the heart of the Bernese Oberland.  Home to such famous peaks as the Monch, the Jungfrau and the Eiger, with access provided by an incredible cog railway that tunnels right...

Read More

The weather of mid-August this year changed dramatically as a storm dropped temperatures into the 30's and brought a few inches of snow to the mountains. With a clearing pattern forecasted, Tim Carmody from Kitsap County joined Paul for a go at the classic Southwest Rib on South Early Winter Spire at Washington Pass. Clouds lifting off Whistler Mtn. and Cutthroat Peak. It didn't take long to dispatch the first few pitches of the route and soon Tim was making short work of the infamous "nervous...

Read More

Despite a ominous forecast for rain, Will Mondzac, who the week before had made a sunny ascent of the Direct East Buttress on North Early Winter Spire with Larry, headed toward Washington Pass with Paul for a shot at one of the area's classics: the east face of Lexington. The approach went quickly as patchy clouds made the day look promising. The old snow was mainly avoided and a quick pitch of scrambling from the right side gully set us up for a long warm-up pitch consisting of flakes and ledges. The...

Read More

Longtime NCMG guest and part time valley resident Pete Vogt recently joined Larry for a few days of alpine rock climbing at Washington pass. Since Pete was coming from Seattle the two decided to meet at the Blue lake trailhead.  Since they were getting a later than normal start, they decided on the Northwest face of Liberty bell - a climb that doesn't get sun into mid afternoon anyway.  The route can be seen here in red.  There are multiple starting pitches as well as a fun...

Read More

After a mid-August trip to Mt. Shuksan last year that was memorably cold, rainy and snowy, Arturo Oti of Carson City, Nevada, returned to the North Cascades for a few days of peak bagging in the resplendent environs of Boston Basin. This time the weather was hot and sunny. The approach into Boston Basin off the Cascade River Road is always an adventure in itself. The best never comes easy and this is true with gaining access into the alpine landscape of the area. Here, Arturo moves through a...

Read More

Part time Mazama resident Will Mondzac returned this year for another climb of one of Washington Pass' more challenging classic routes.  After discussing options with Larry, they decided on the Direct East Buttress (DEB) of S.E.W.S. The climb follows the red line up the striking crest of the buttress.  Where it turns the corner of the arete, the climb gains some incredible exposure. The start of the climb - here Will begins the 5th class climbing. Several pitches up, the route...

Read More

With temps consistently in the upper 90's to low 100's for the past few weeks, the best place to beat the heat has been up high. Office Manager Dave and his good friend Tim spent Saturday climbing up at the Pass and found relatively cool to moderate temps by picking their aspects carefully.

Starting with Rappel Grappel on Liberty Bell, then the N. Face of Concord Tower and finally finishing up the afternoon shift on the S Arete of South Early Winter Spire, we enjoyed alpine climbing in shorts and shirtsleeves in a nice breeze all day!