3-day program

Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel

This is a 3-day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue. 

This course is scheduled during the summer season and can be arranged with custom dates. 
 
Below are videos by NCMG owners Jeff Ward and Larry Goldie. These videos highlight some of the techniques you will learn on your Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course and are a good reference to use in preparation for your course. You will be learning a lot of information during the course and the more prepared you are, the more information you will retain during the 3 days in the mountains.

Below are videos by NCMG owners Jeff Ward and Larry Goldie. These videos highlight some of the techniques you will learn on your Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course and are a good reference to use in preparation for your course. You will be learning a lot of information during the course and the more prepared you are, the more information you will retain during the 3 days in the mountains.

Crevasse Rescue: Transfer the Load from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Backing Up a Picket from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Prepping the Lip from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Hauling from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Day One: Depending on the conditions and time of year, there are several areas we may choose for this program. On the first day, we will hike into a base camp, set up our camp and spend the afternoon discussing several topics. 

Those topics may include:

  • Various rope configurations
  • Roping up – How far apart
  • Tying off excess rope
  • Friction Hitches (including the Prusik)
  • Ascending the rope
  • Snow anchors
  • Team rope travel

Day Two: We will use the previous day’s skills and venture out onto a glacier. We will discuss route finding and rope management. Touring around on the glacier will eventually lead us to a suitable crevasse for rescue practice. Here we will cover the following topics:

  • Probing for hidden crevasses
  • Arresting a crevasse fall
  • Multiple rescue and pulley systems; 2:1, 3:1, 6:1, 9:1 etc.

Students will have the majority of the day to practice crevasse rescue in different scenarios. The most difficult scenario being the two-person team where the entire rescue is performed by one person.

We feel it is important to have each student run through this life-saving rescue procedure at least once.

Day Three: We will leave early for a final glacier tour with a student out front. Students will be leading the route finding and managing the team. There will be time for several students to have a turn on the front of the rope before heading down to break camp. Back at camp we will debrief the morning’s tour and answer any remaining questions before breaking camp and heading for the Trailhead. 

To get the most out of a program like this it is important for climbers to arrive with some basic skills.  If you feel like you lack these skills consider adding an extra day before the start of this program to cover these core skills.

  • Basic snow climbing and descending techniques
  • Self-arrest techniques
  • Use of crampons
  • Basic knots – figure eight, clove hitch, double fisherman’s, etc
  • Watch the pre-course crevasse rescue video series 

EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER TRAVEL TRAINING

 

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Glacier Travel Training Course
  • Crevasse Rescue 

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.

 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.

 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

 

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Buff
  • Lightweight Gloves 
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Heavyweight Gloves 
  • Warm Socks

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Puffy Jacket with Hood
  • Hardshell Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Lightweight Baselayer Bottom
  • Softshell Pants
  • Hardshell Pants
  • Gaiters or boots with built in gaiters
     

ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (30-40 Liters, designed for skiing)
  • Sunglasses
  • Goggles
    Sunscreen and spf lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food (we strongly recommend not using hydration bladders/tubes during winter trips)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit

CLIMBING / TECHNICAL 
(these may be rented from NCMG)

  • Ice Axe (lightweight)
  • Boot Crampons (recommend aluminum for weight savings)
  • Climbing harness (a lightweight ski mountaineering model such as the Black Diamond couloir)
  • Climbing Helmet 
     

CREVASSE RESCUE GEAR

  • 5  locking carabiners
  • 6 non-locking carabiners
  • 1 Double-Length (120cm) dyneema/spectra sewn runner
  • 1 cordelette 18—21 feet long, 6mm—7mm
  • 2 Friction hitches (we recommend sterling hollowblocks)
  • Optional: 1 Petzl micro traxion ratcheting pulley
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (4 season, lightweight)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-20 degree rating)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
    Stove (recommend isobutane stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide) 
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Utensils
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs. 
Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Paul Butler
Drew Lovell
Joshua Cole
Steph Williams
Ross Lindell
Nate Pakula

1:1 $1,875

2:1 $1,275

3:1 $975

4:1 $900

per person

Dates

Private courses can be scheduled anytime between May 1 – Oct 1.

Technical Difficulty
1
Physical Difficulty
1

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