Alpine Rock Climbs in the Central Cascades

Vesper Peak

One of the hidden gems of the Central Cascades is Vesper Peak. 

Only 75 miles from the center of Seattle to the Sunrise Mine Trailhead, Vesper Peak has several high quality multi-pitch rock climbs on its North Face.

Those routes include: Ragged Edge (5.7, 6 pitches), True Grit (5.8, 5 pitches), The North Face (5.7, 4 pitches), and Fish and Whistle (5.10a, 5 pitches). All are excellent options.  

These climbs can be done as long day-climbs, but a better option is to camp in the basin below the peak and then summit on day 2. This gives you the option to climb multiple routes on the peak or to spend more time enjoying the beautiful alpine camping between Vesper and Sperry Peaks.  

If you are looking to add more climbing to your trip in this zone, Mile High Club (5.10a, 7 pitches) on Morning Star Peak is a great addition.

For those who want to try out more rock climbing closer to home, Vesper Peak cannot be matched in the Cascades. 

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Washington Pass Climbing
  • Multipitch Climbing Course

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Sun Hat (a hat with a visor)
  • Warm Hat
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece Jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants
  • Optional: Shorts for the approach hike/hot days in summer

Optional Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket (Gore-tex or similar)
  • Lightweight rain pants

 

ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (25-35 Liters)
  • Optional: On-route pack (12-18L) (a small pack for your essentials while on route)
  • Sunglasses
  • Optional: Trekking Poles

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and spf lip balm
  • Water & Food (see our food  guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)

 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (a personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)

 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)

  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS


TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • NCNP Alpine Climbing Trips (Boston Basin, Eldorado Basin, etc.)
  • Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys)
  • Black Peak (NE Ridge)

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing. 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip. 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended) or running shoes (route and conditions dependent; check with your guide)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants
  • Lightweight baselayer bottoms


ACCESSORIES

  • Overnight Backpack (40-50 Liters)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food (see food guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles



 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness 
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Climbing Shoes (route dependent)
  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (3 season, lightweight or single wall)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-30 degree rating, depending upon conditions)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
  • Stove (recommend isobutane canister stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs

 

Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Paul Butler
Drew Lovell
Joshua Cole
Steph Williams
Ross Lindell
Nate Pakula

$675 per day 1:1

$525 per day 2:1

per person

Max Climbing Grade
Technical Difficulty
2
Physical Difficulty
2

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