The climbing on Rebel Yell involves every type of crack climbing from layback fingers, to perfect hands, fists, chimneys and even a splitter section of off-width. All seven pitches of this route are unique and memorable. There are two potential starts. The left start is quite a bit harder and thinner while the right start is wider and easier. The ratings of the pitches are as follows – P1 5.9 (or 5.8), P2 10b (or 5.9+), P3 5.9 (or 5.7), P4 5.8, P5 10b, P6 5.8, P7 5.7. For a complete description of the route check out the Super Topo guide to the Washington Pass Area.
Typically this climb is done as a two-day trip, spending the night at either the Larch Bench or Burgundy Col. Camping overnight at these campsites allows climbers to add another climb to the itinerary. Popular routes on day one include the North Face of Burgundy Spire or the West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle.
Climbers usually need to bring crampons and ice axes for this route, but the descent rappels the route so extra gear can be left at the base of the climb.
Climbers should be comfortable following crack climbs up to 10b. Experience with wide cracks is helpful, including off-widths. Some experience with crampons and an ice axe is helpful but not required.
There are several other quality routes that can be climbed from the Burgundy Col Camp or the Larch Bench Camp. You can also combine this route with other routes in the Washington Pass Area.
Here are some recommendations:
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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