North Early Winter Spire (NEWS) stands out among the Liberty bell group as it rises above Blue lake basin with its sheer west face being among the cleanest and steepest sweeps of granite in the whole basin. One of the most visible features is the large, arcing dihedral that makes up the upper portion of the Northwest Corner. This feature stays in the shade until late in the day and can be a great option for those really hot days of Summer, or a normal day with a late start. While rated more moderately than its neighbor, the West face route, the NW corner is a more physical climb with a significant portion of the climbing being wide or off width.
After an enjoyable hike to base of the spire, the route shares the first pitch with the West face up some enjoyable and moderate 5.7 - 5.8 cracks. The next pitch heads out left onto the zigzag cracks. These steep layback cracks offer airy and sustained climbing up to a hanging belay at the base of the crux pitch. This pitch begins with off width climbing in a giant left facing corner, which gradually tapers down as one ascends. This is physical climbing that finally eases up when face holds appear and allow climbers to move out of the corner. Another pitch up this giant feature exits via a few steep moves onto the upper reaches of the spire and back into the sun. An easy pitch and some scrambling lead to the summit.
The descent off of the North Spire is a breeze, thanks to a clean and direct, bolted rappel route down the West face. Half a dozen rappels will bring you right back to where you left your packs at the base of the route, allowing you to climb the route with minimal gear on your back. Fast parties may still have additional time to climb another route on NEWS, or make an afternoon ascent of the South Arete on SEWS, right next door.
Climbers should be solid at the 5.9 grade and have prior experience climbing wider cracks.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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