5 Days of Exploring the North Cascades

Beyond the Volcanoes

Gain the Skills Needed to Competently Climb on Technical Terrain on a Variety of Mediums.

Already climbed Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker or Mt. Hood? Looking for the next logical step in your progression? 
 
As guides living and working in the Northwest we run into a lot of climbers that have started their climbing careers on one of the big Northwest Volcanoes. For many of these climbers, their next steps are to climb higher and more technical peaks around the world - but new skills are needed to progress safely and smoothly. 
 
The “Beyond the Volcanoes” program is set up to help the aspiring alpinist gain the skills needed to competently climb on technical terrain on a variety of mediums. 

Dates:

  • Private courses can be scheduled anytime between May 15 – Oct 1

Price Includes:

  • Up to 5 days of low ratio guiding and course specific information
  • Use of all technical climbing equipment required
  • Equipment list for Beyond the Volcanoes
  • Essay: Training for alpine climbing
  • Classic Climbs in the North Cascades

Price Excludes:

  • Travel or Lodging
  • Food during the program (this can be arranged by NCMG at an additional charge)
  • Personal climbing and camping equipment

Day 1 - The start of the program focuses on rock climbing with a day of training at a crag in the valley. This venue gives the participant the ability to focus on new skills without having to deal with heavy packs filled with overnight gear. The skills covered on day one will teach participants all the necessary techniques to safely and efficiently climb and descend multi-pitch rock climbs.

Day 2 - The next day is spent in the mountains climbing a classic in the WA Pass area. There are a number of classic moderate routes in the Washington Pass area from which we will choose a climb for our summit attempt. Among these are the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire and The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell.

See our Washington Pass Climbing page for further information on Washington Pass classic climbs.

Days 3, 4, and 5 are an alpine climbing objective - you will be packing up and heading into the mountains for two nights and three days.

The objective of this three day section will be to climb one of the high peaks in the area. This will involve steep snow, glacial climbing, and technical rock. Participants will be able to put all of their skills together on one challenging, but attainable objective.

The venues NCMG uses for this section of the course include areas such as Mt. Shuksan, Boston Basin, and Silver Star Peak. We will use a lightweight alpine style of travel and climbing. Your guide will show you techniques for trimming the weight off your pack while still having everything you need for being in the mountains.

Participants should have basic mountaineering skills. These include climbing and descending on snow, self-arrest and the ability to travel as part of a rope team.

Crevasse rescue skills, while beneficial, are not required for this course. If you are feeling like you need a brush up on these skills, consider taking our 3-day Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course.

Ratios and pack weight are kept low so participants can move at their own pace and pick objectives that suit their strengths, while allowing them work on their newly acquired skills.

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • NCNP Alpine Climbing Trips (Boston Basin, Eldorado Basin, etc.)
  • Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys)
  • Black Peak (NE Ridge)

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather forecast, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING:

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat
  • Sun Hat
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended) or running shoes (route and conditions dependent; check with your guide)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sun shirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants
  • Lightweight baselayer bottoms

ACCESSORIES:

  • Overnight Backpack (40-50 Liters)
  • Sunglasses

OVERNIGHT GEAR CONTINUED:

  • Stove (recommend isobutene stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot 
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Water & Food (see food guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles
  • Cloth Mask
  • Hand Sanitizer

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT:

  • Climbing Helmet
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay Device
  • 2 Locking Carabiners
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Climbing Shoes (route dependent)
  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe

OVERNIGHT GEAR:

  • Tent (3 seasons, lightweight or single wall)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-30 degree rating, depending upon conditions) 
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)

 

Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Paul Butler
Joshua Cole
Ross Lindell
Nate Pakula
Adam Butterfield
Matt Hainstock
Timmy Rickert
Kyle Pratt
Chris Bartram

$2,925 - 1:1

$1,875 - 2:1 per person

Custom

Technical Difficulty
1
Physical Difficulty
1

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