5 Days of Exploring the North Cascades

Beyond the Volcanoes

Gain the Skills Needed to Competently Climb on Technical Terrain on a Variety of Mediums.

Already climbed Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker or Mt. Hood? Looking for the next logical step in your progression? 
 
As guides living and working in the Northwest we run into a lot of climbers that have started their climbing careers on one of the big Northwest Volcanoes. For many of these climbers, their next steps are to climb higher and more technical peaks around the world - but new skills are needed to progress safely and smoothly. 
 
The “Beyond the Volcanoes” program is set up to help the aspiring alpinist gain the skills needed to competently climb on technical terrain on a variety of mediums. 

Dates:

  • Private courses can be scheduled anytime between May 15 – Oct 1

Price Includes:

  • Up to 5 days of low ratio guiding and course specific information
  • Use of all technical climbing equipment required
  • Equipment list for Beyond the Volcanoes
  • Essay: Training for alpine climbing
  • Classic Climbs in the North Cascades

Price Excludes:

  • Travel or Lodging
  • Food during the program (this can be arranged by NCMG at an additional charge)
  • Personal climbing and camping equipment

Day 1 - The start of the program focuses on rock climbing with a day of training at a crag in the valley. This venue gives the participant the ability to focus on new skills without having to deal with heavy packs filled with overnight gear. The skills covered on day one will teach participants all the necessary techniques to safely and efficiently climb and descend multi-pitch rock climbs.

Day 2 - The next day is spent in the mountains climbing a classic in the WA Pass area. There are a number of classic moderate routes in the Washington Pass area from which we will choose a climb for our summit attempt. Among these are the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire and The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell.

See our Washington Pass Climbing page for further information on Washington Pass classic climbs.

Days 3, 4, and 5 are an alpine climbing objective - you will be packing up and heading into the mountains for two nights and three days.

The objective of this three day section will be to climb one of the high peaks in the area. This will involve steep snow, glacial climbing, and technical rock. Participants will be able to put all of their skills together on one challenging, but attainable objective.

The venues NCMG uses for this section of the course include areas such as Mt. Shuksan, Boston Basin, and Silver Star Peak. We will use a lightweight alpine style of travel and climbing. Your guide will show you techniques for trimming the weight off your pack while still having everything you need for being in the mountains.

Participants should have basic mountaineering skills. These include climbing and descending on snow, self-arrest and the ability to travel as part of a rope team.

Crevasse rescue skills, while beneficial, are not required for this course. If you are feeling like you need a brush up on these skills, consider taking our 3-day Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course.

Ratios and pack weight are kept low so participants can move at their own pace and pick objectives that suit their strengths, while allowing them work on their newly acquired skills.

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS


TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • NCNP Alpine Climbing Trips (Boston Basin, Eldorado Basin, etc.)
  • Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys)
  • Black Peak (NE Ridge)

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing. 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip. 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended) or running shoes (route and conditions dependent; check with your guide)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants
  • Lightweight baselayer bottoms


ACCESSORIES

  • Overnight Backpack (40-50 Liters)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food (see food guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles



 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness 
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Climbing Shoes (route dependent)
  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (3 season, lightweight or single wall)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-30 degree rating, depending upon conditions)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
  • Stove (recommend isobutane canister stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs

 

Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Paul Butler
Joshua Cole
Ross Lindell
Nate Pakula
Adam Butterfield
Matt Hainstock
Timmy Rickert
Kyle Pratt
Chris Bartram

$2,925 - 1:1

$1,875 - 2:1 per person

Custom

Technical Difficulty
1
Physical Difficulty
1

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