Alpine Rock - Grade III 5.8, 10 pitches

South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Rib

One of the best 5.8 routes in the state.  

It contains a variety of climbing from chimneys to slabs and everything in between.  It is one of our favorite climbs at Washington Pass and many guests come back to climb this route year after year.

The climb is 10 pitches long with 2 pitches in the 5.8/5.8+ range. The quality and variety of the climbing are what makes this climb so classic. The “Wavy Crack," the “Bear Hug” pitch, and the “Nervous Nelly” pitch are all memorable. There is also the option to add in some variations to make the route a little harder if so desired.

The descent takes you down the regular route on SEWS – The South Arete, via a combination of down-climbing and rappels. 

This climb is a good route for climbers comfortable following 5.8 crack climbs. It is also a good option for more experienced climbers working on their lead climbing and belay stance management on multi-pitch routes.

Participants should have previous belaying and rappelling experience. We recommend climbers have previous experience on multi-pitch routes, but it is not required. 

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Washington Pass Climbing
  • Multipitch Climbing Course

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat
  • Sun Hat
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sun shirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants
  • Optional: shorts for the approach hike

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants

ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (25-35 Liters)
  • Optional: on-route pack (a very small pack for your essentials on route)
  • Sunglasses
  • Trekking Poles

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Water & Food (see our food  guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Cloth Mask
  • Hand Sanitizer 
  • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay Device
  • 2 Locking Carabiners
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)

  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe

$575 1:1

$375 2:1

Duration
Max Climbing Grade
Technical Difficulty
2
Physical Difficulty
2

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