Mt. Baker has the distinction of being the third tallest mountain in Washington and was once thought to be the most active volcano in the Cascade chain. (This was just prior to the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980!) Now, this massive snow and ice covered peak offers one of the best alpine training grounds for learning snow and ice climbing, glacier travel skills and as a place to prepare for higher peaks around the world.
The Coleman Deming route was the route used by the first ascent party in 1868 and remains popular today. Offering the unique opportunity to climb on two aspects of the mountain, the route begins on the north facing slopes of the Coleman glacier, before wrapping onto the West facing aspect of the Deming glacier and a view of the opposite side of the mountain.
As with most volcano climbing, the key to success on this route is good weather and good endurance. While the climbing is not very technical, it does require over 7000′ of climbing from the trailhead and a long summit day with close to 5000 vertical feet of elevation gain.
Mount Baker is the quintessential Northwest volcano climb. It is typically done as either a 2 or 3 day outing, depending on previous experience.
Day One, you will begin at the Heliotrope Ridge trail outside the town of Glacier, Washington on the mountain’s north side. After a several hour hike, we will make our high camp near 6000′ at the top of the “Hogsback ridge”.
Day 2 is spent covering the necessary skills that will be used climbing the mountain. These include efficient snow climbing techniques, use of ice axe and crampons, traveling as a rope team and self arrest skills. We will eat dinner and get to bed early on this night as we will be getting an alpine start to leave for the summit bid the next morning. The training on day 2 is required for climbers new to glacier climbing.
Day 2 or 3, depending on your planned trip, typically begins sometime between midnight and 4 am depending on conditions. After roping up, we will begin ascending the glacier by headlamp and sometimes the light of the moon. Viewing the dark night sky and the Milky Way from high on the mountain is an experience you will never forget.
We will work our way up the Coleman glacier, giving the massive ice cliffs of Colfax Peak a wide berth while winding through crevasses on the upper glacier. At approximately 9000′ we will ascend Pumice Ridge which leads us onto the upper Deming glacier. From here, a slightly steeper climb up the Roman wall will deliver us to the summit plateau and across to the true summit of Mt Baker. From here we will retrace our steps back to our high camp. After a short rest, we will pack up camp and make our way back to the trailhead by mid-afternoon.
In the early season, this makes for a great one or two day ski ascent. This is ideal for those wishing to gain some experience in the ski mountaineering world.
EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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