Cutthroat peak stands alone on the opposite side of the valley from Liberty Bell Group. While there are a number of popular routes on this peak, the classic is the South Buttress. The South Buttress of Cutthroat is a long, moderate route that weaves a clever path through slabs, overhangs and chimneys up to the sunny, broad buttress of this major peak. While none of the climbing is too difficult, this is a long route that requires good fitness and the ability to move quickly over low to mid fifth class rock.
It is a great climb to prepare for the West Ridge of Forbidden.
Depending on the time of year, the approach can be made in approach shoes or mountain boots and will take about 2 hours. The climb begins with several hundred feet of scrambling up a gully that culminates with a steep pitch of low fifth class rock that ends on the ridge crest at the base of the South Buttress.
From there, many short pitches of low fifth class climbing with a couple of harder pitches thrown in, lead up to the false summit. From the false summit, a short descent, and then a couple of final airy pitches lead to the true summit.
Getting down offers a couple of descent options; either down the west ridge via several rappels and a lot of downclimbing, or via more than a dozen rappels back down the South Buttress. The latter offers the advantage of allowing climbers to cache gear and/or shoes at the base of the technical climbing, though the former is probably a little faster.
Either way, the South Buttress always makes for a full day of climbing in a spectacular setting with far fewer crowds than many of its more popular neighbors.
Previous multi-pitch climbing experience with the ability to climb up to 5.8 in rock shoes.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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