The climb combines moderate glacier climbing with a bit of steep snow and is capped off with an easy but exposed rock climb to the summit. This climb is perfect for climbers new to the sport or more experienced mountaineers looking to climb a beautiful peak in the heart of the North Cascades.
The Quien Sabe Glacier can be easily done in two days. The approach to this climb is relatively straightforward and short (for North Cascades standards) but does involve some steep, rough trail. Camp is made at the lower Boston Basin camp well below the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier. The approach usually takes 3 to 4 hours of climbing which leaves time for training around camp and allows climbers to get to bed early for the “alpine start” the next morning.
The next day starts early to ensure firm snow conditions and give the climbers enough time to climb to the summit and descend. The first hour or two is spent hiking up to the base of the glacier. Once at the base the team will rope up and climb up through the lower section of the glacier. After negotiating the lower, broken section of the glacier the climbers will tackle the steeper section of the route. This involves moderately steep snow up to 40 degrees in steepness.
The route then transitions off the glacier and onto the West Ridge. The west ridge is followed to the summit via 3rd and short sections of 4th class rock.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent via down-climbing and possibly a short lower, depending on conditions.
The Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower is the perfect route to add to this itinerary. The climb of the SE Ridge is a perfect introduction to alpine rock. It combines some moderate snow climbing with an exciting rock climb.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather forecast, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING: Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES:
OVERNIGHT GEAR CONTINUED:
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT:
OVERNIGHT GEAR:
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