MIXED ALPINE CLIMBING

North Face of Mount Shuksan

The North Face of Mount Shuksan offers a challenging and technical climbing experience, known for its steep, icy terrain and dramatic exposure. 

This route is considered one of the more demanding climbs on the mountain, requiring solid alpine climbing skills and experience in steep snow and mixed climbing. 

The ascent typically begins with a strenuous approach to the base of the North Face, often involving glacier travel and navigation through complex terrain. The climb itself features steep snow and ice pitches, often up to 60-70 degrees, and sections of mixed climbing where climbers must navigate through a combination of rock, snow, and ice. The route is highly exposed, with sweeping views of the surrounding North Cascades, adding to the intensity and beauty of the climb. 

Due to its difficulty and the technical nature of the terrain, the North Face is recommended for experienced alpinists who are comfortable with sustained steep snow climbing, glacier travel and the ability to travel light. The route culminates in reaching the summit pyramid, where climbers are rewarded with unparalleled views and the satisfaction of completing one of the more formidable routes on Mount Shuksan.

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Washington Pass Climbing
  • Multipitch Climbing Course

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Sun Hat (a hat with a visor)
  • Warm Hat
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece Jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants
  • Optional: Shorts for the approach hike/hot days in summer

Optional Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket (Gore-tex or similar)
  • Lightweight rain pants

 

ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (25-35 Liters)
  • Optional: On-route pack (12-18L) (a small pack for your essentials while on route)
  • Sunglasses
  • Optional: Trekking Poles

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and spf lip balm
  • Water & Food (see our food  guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)

 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (a personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)

 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)

  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS


TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • NCNP Alpine Climbing Trips (Boston Basin, Eldorado Basin, etc.)
  • Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys)
  • Black Peak (NE Ridge)

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing. 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip. 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended) or running shoes (route and conditions dependent; check with your guide)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants
  • Lightweight baselayer bottoms


ACCESSORIES

  • Overnight Backpack (40-50 Liters)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food (see food guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles



 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness 
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Climbing Shoes (route dependent)
  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (3 season, lightweight or single wall)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-30 degree rating, depending upon conditions)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
  • Stove (recommend isobutane canister stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs

 

EQUIPMENT LIST – TECHNICAL SNOW & ICE


TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Mt. Baker (North Ridge)
  • Mt. Shuksan (North Face)
  • Selected climbs in NCNP (e.g. Buckner North Face)

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.

 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.

 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat
  • Buff
  • Lightweight Gloves 
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Heavyweight Gloves 
  • Warm Socks (~2 pairs)

Upper Body Layers

  • T-Shirt
  • Lightweight Sunshirt Top with hood
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated Puffy Jacket with Hood 
  • Hardshell Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Lightweight Baselayer Bottom
  • Softshell Pants
  • Hardshell Pants
  • Optional: shorts for warmer weather
  • Gaiters or boots with built-in gaiters

 

CLIMBING / TECHNICAL

  • Boots: Insulated leather or synthetic mountaineering boots in the early season (such as the La Sportiva Nepal) and an uninsulated synthetic boot such as the Trango. Must be crampon-compatible
  • Optional: Approach shoes
  • Ice Tools or Technical Piolets with pinky rests. Please consult your guide.
  • Crampons (must be compatible with your boots)
  • Climbing harness 
  • Climbing Helmet
  • 2 - 3 Locking Carabiners
  • Belay Device

 

 

ACCESSORIES 

  • Backpack (45-55 Liters)
  • Sunglasses
  • Optional: Goggles
  • Sunscreen and spf lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food 
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (4 season, lightweight)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-20 degree rating)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
  • Stove (recommend isobutene stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Utensils
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs are all you should need

 

CREVASSE RESCUE GEAR 
(optional, please consult your guide)

  • 3 additional locking carabiners (5 total)
  • 6 non-locking carabiners
  • 1-2 double-length dyneema slings
  • 1 cordelette 18—21 feet long, 6mm—7mm
  • 2 Friction hitches (recommend Sterling 6mm autoblock)
  • Optional: 1 Petzl micro traxion ratcheting pulley

 

Technical Difficulty
4
Physical Difficulty
4

Proudly Sponsored By