The South East Ridge makes for the perfect introductory alpine rock climb or as an addition to one of the other classic climbs in the area. The climb has a good combination of glacier climbing, steep snow, and moderate rock, enabling the climber to put to use many of the skills needed to be a well-rounded Alpinist.
In an area already known for some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Cascades, Sharkfin has what many consider to be the best granite in Washington State. While the climb is relatively short, what it lacks in length, it makes up for in position, exposure, and ambiance.
The climb starts from the lower campsites in Boston Basin and consists of a very short glacier, a moderately steep couloir and several pitches of low fifth class climbing. The most dramatic section of the climb is on the upper portions of the tower.
After leaving the notch at the base of the rock the route follows near or on the ridge crest for several 5th class pitches. These can be climbed in rock shoes or boots depending on your comfort level. As you gain elevation on the tower the exposure increases but fortunately the climbing eases. The last few pitches to the summit are 4th to low 5th class climbing directly on the ridge crest.
The descent back to camp starts with a bit of downclimbing followed by several rappels. You will trace your route back down the couloir, onto the glacier and back to camp. From there you can relax in camp and get ready for your next climb or head back to the valley for a well-deserved dinner.
North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer this program as a two or even one-day program. Previous climbing experience with NCMG or a strong recommendation from a certified guide is required to participate on one of these more advanced programs.
Climbers should know how to belay and rappel and be comfortable on low 5th class rock. If climbers are new to rock climbing NCMG suggests rock shoes for this climb to increase comfort and security, otherwise, mountaineering boots are appropriate.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
