The West Ridge of Paisano pinnacle is one of those hidden gems that is generally only climbed by people in the know. A long time favorite of several of our guides, we have watched this climb get cleaner and better over the years as more people find out about the quality climbing it offers.
Paisano is overshadowed by its much taller, neighboring peaks, collectively known as the Wine Spires. This collection of spires; Burgundy, Pernod, Chianti and Chablis, all offer some great climbing, though arguably none can claim such fine moderate climbing as the West Ridge of Paisano pinnacle.
Though it finishes on a lower summit, the climb on Paisano starts much lower and thus offers seven to eight pitches of excellent climbing en route to the top. Pitch after pitch of high quality hand and finger cracks with large, comfortable belay ledges in a spectacular setting make this one of the best climbs of its grade in the Washington pass area.
There are a number of strategies for climbing the West Ridge of Paisano pinnacle. Some folks will do the route car to car in one long day. This is often a 10-12 hour day. Others will camp at the Larch bench and combine this with a climb of the Silver Star glacier and/or the North face of Burgundy Spire. Super strong climbers might be interested in a “Super day” and do a link up of the West ridge of Paisano and continuing up the North face of Burgundy for many, many pitches of high quality 5.8 climbing.
When climbed in one day, the West ridge makes for a full day of being on the move. The approach is a few hours, though up a steep and strenuous trail. Once at the base of the climb, we will switch into rock shoes, rope up and begin the climb. Each pitch is sustained mid fifth class climbing and good jamming skills will pay dividends here. The crux comes two thirds of the way up the route, on a short step of steep twin finger cracks. Several more pitches, with the ridge becoming more defined and narrow, finally lead to the small and airy summit.
The descent involves a few hundred feet of downclimbing and then a series of rappels back to Burgundy col. From here, it's back to the climbers trail and all the way back down to the creek. A short climb at the end takes us back up to the highway and our vehicles.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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