At 8,815 feet it is not the tallest peak in the range, but the quality of climbing and the beauty of the peak make it one of the best. Its pyramid shape, surrounding glaciers and solid rock make Forbidden Peak a difficult summit to attain. All of the routes to the summit of Forbidden require technical climbing. There are no “walk-ups” on Forbidden Peak.
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is by far the most popular route, and for good reason. The upper ridge alone would be worthy of classic status. It is one of the most beautiful rock ridges in the world – wild exposure, solid rock, and moderate climbing all combine to make an amazing climb. You can also throw in a steep snow couloir, a moderate glacier and a beautiful, high alpine camp to round out this classic. It is no wonder why the West Ridge made it into “50 Classic Climbs in North America”.
The approach to the West Ridge of Forbidden starts at 3,200’ on the Cascade River Road just outside the town of Marblemount. The trail leading to high camp starts in the forest but quickly climbs into the alpine. To reach your high, alpine camp you will end up climbing 3,100’ in approximately 3 miles. The approach trail is steep but it efficiently gets you to your high camp and in position for the climb the following day.
After an alpine start early in the morning, you will climb up to the base of the West Ridge Couloir via moderate snow and glacier travel. Climbing the couloir consists of steep, 45 to 50 degree snow, often with an easy mixed section near the top. Once you reach the ridge crest you can cache your snow climbing gear and switch into rock shoes.
The ridge itself is relatively easy in terms of technical difficulty, but the exposure and views are unmatched. The route follows on or near the ridge crest all the way to the summit. The summit of this beautiful pyramid is spectacular. After spending some time taking pictures of the surrounding peak you will reverse your route, down climbing and rappelling the West Ridge. After picking up your cache and switching back to your boots we will continue the descent down the couloir and back to high camp.
The next morning, after your big day in the mountains, you will enjoy a leisurely start and a reasonable, two to three hour walk downhill back to the trailhead. You can also add additional days to your trip into Boston Basin and climb other routes on Forbidden, Sharkfin Tower, Sahale, Torment or several other classic climbs accessed from basecamp.
North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer this program as a two or even one-day program for qualified individuals.
Previous climbing experience with NCMG or a strong recommendation from a certified guide is required to participate on one of these more advanced programs.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
