Mt. Baker has the distinction of being the third tallest mountain in Washington and was once thought to be the most active volcano in the Cascade chain. (This was just prior to the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980!) Now, this massive snow and ice covered peak offers one of the best alpine training grounds for learning snow and ice climbing, glacier travel skills and as a place to prepare for higher peaks around the world.
The Easton glacier is considered to be one of the least technical routes on the mountain. Offering a wide and low angled glacier that runs uninterrupted to the summit, this can be one of the most direct lines on the mountain. For this reason it is also very popular as an early season ski or snowboard descent.
As with most volcano climbing, the key to success on this route is good weather and good endurance. While the climbing is not very technical, it does require over 7500′ of climbing from the trailhead and a long summit day with close to 5000 vertical feet of elevation gain.
Mount Baker is the quintessential Northwest volcano climb. It is typically done as either a 2 or 3 day outing, depending on previous experience. You will begin at the Schriebers Meadow trailhead on the south side of the mountain.
Day One will involve hiking on a trail or on snow, depending on the time of year, up to the “railroad grade” – a lateral moraine named for its uniform slope, alongside the lower Easton glacier. We will set up our high camp at around 6000′ on the mountain.
Day 2 is spent covering the necessary skills that will be used climbing the mountain. These include efficient snow climbing techniques, use of ice axe and crampons, traveling as a rope team, and self-arrest skills. This day is required for people new to glacier climbing or for people who want to brush up on these skills.
Day 3 typically begins sometime between midnight and 4 am depending on conditions. After roping up, we will begin ascending the glacier by headlamp and sometimes the light of the moon. Viewing the dark night sky and the Milky Way from high on the mountain is an experience you will never forget.
We take a well-deserved break at the summit crater (9700′), before making the final push up the Roman wall to the summit plateau. After the requisite summit photos, we retrace our steps back to camp. After a short nap, we will pack up camp and make our way back to the trailhead by mid-afternoon.
In the early season, this makes for a great one- or two-day ski ascent. This is ideal for those wishing to gain some experience in the ski mountaineering world.
EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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