Offering the most moderate route up this iconic peak, the Beckey route follows the Southwest face up a series of cracks, chimneys, and slabs for four pitches to the summit of Liberty Bell.
First climbed in 1946 Fred Beckey made the 16 mile approach up the Twisp River to the Liberty Bell group, long before the North Cascades Highway existed. Climbers nowadays enjoy the convenience of Highway 20 and the Blue Lake trail to make this approach short, scenic and the route easily doable in a day.
This climb varies considerably with the time of year. Early season, the Beckey route feels like a full-on alpine endeavor, with snow on much or all of the approach. A steep snow couloir guards the base of the climb, and often ice hides in the back of the second pitch chimney. Later in the season, it is possible to walk to the base in a pair of lightweight hiking boots and on some days, you can even climb the route in shorts!
Time your ascent based on the experience you want to have.
Depending on the conditions and fitness the approach will take between an hour and a half and two and a half hours. The first half of this approach is on a comfortable and popular hiking trail that goes to Blue Lake. Close to the lake we veer off and head up a climbers’ trail. The trail is steep in places and has a few short sections of scrambling on 3rd class rock. Trekking poles are highly recommended for this approach!
Early in the season, the approach will require an ice axe and crampons to ascend the Beckey Gully.
Fast parties that make good time on the Beckey route might be interested in trying to climb one of the other nearby routes. When its not busy with people descending the peak, the rappel route, “Overexposure” offers a couple of great 5.8 pitches right near the start of the climb. Rapple Grapple is also a guides favorite with 3 pitches of 5.7 finger and hand cracks. More ambitious might want to try one of the routes on the North face of Concord Tower. Just across the gully, there are several worthy routes in the 5.7 range.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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