Offering two pitches of high quality 5.8 finger crack and laybacking up super clean granite, this route is often climbed as an added bonus after finishing up one of the other routes in the area.
The climb itself is most commonly used as the rappel route for all of the climbs on Liberty Bell. Because of this, it can get very busy later in the day with climbers rappelling off of the spire. Early in the day, however, this little gem is free of crowds and offers a great alternative to its much more popular neighbor, the Beckey Route.
While actually a worthy climb on its own, Overexposure makes a great link up with one or two of the other routes on Liberty Bell or Concord tower if you are making good time.
When linking Overexposure with another Liberty Bell climb, we will often only climb the first two pitches and begin rappelling from there, rather than repeating the fourth class scrambling to the summit. This allows us to get a couple of bonus pitches of high quality climbing in!
The climb starts out with some tricky moves right off of the ground at the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Towers. Since we will be rappelling back to this spot, we usually cache most or all of our gear right here. The climbing is fairly sustained in the 5.7 – 5.8 range and consists of finger cracks and liebacking on the clean granite. The second pitch tops out at the start of the Liberty Bell rappels. If you are continuing to the summit, it's a few hundred feet of fourth and low fifth class scrambling to the top.
The descent is completed by downclimbing the upper sections and then making several rappels down the route back into the approach couloir where we have cached our gear.
Climbers should know how to belay and be comfortable following mid-fifth class rock. We generally leave packs at the base of the climb.
The Obvious combination here is with the Beckey route, though Rapple Grapple is also a guides favorite with 3 pitches of 5.7 finger and hand cracks. More ambitious parties might want to try one of the routes on the North face of Concord Tower, located just across the Beckey Gully.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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