It is a moderate glacier climb with a spectacular knife-edged summit ridge in the heart of the North Cascades. For fit climbers, the East Ridge is a perfect introduction to climbing glaciated peaks and moderately steep snow.
For most climbers, the first day of this climb is the hardest. The climb starts at 2,100′ and climbs steeply up the Eldorado Creek drainage. The first campsites encountered are around 5,400′ with the highest camps, near the east ridge, at 7,800′ – a 5,700′ elevation gain. Most people prefer to camp at the lower camp but if time allows it’s nice to break the approach into two days with the first night at 5,400′ and the second night at 7,800′.
From the base of the East Ridge, the route ascends the southern edge of the Inspiration Glacier, which is aptly named. From there the route climbs the airy, knife-edge ridge crest to the summit. This section of the route is mainly what gives this route its “classic” status.
While the climbing is relatively easy climbers will need to be fit for this climb and comfortable with a little bit of exposure near the summit.
EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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