It is a moderate glacier climb with a spectacular knife-edged summit ridge in the heart of the North Cascades. For fit climbers, the East Ridge is a perfect introduction to climbing glaciated peaks and moderately steep snow.
For most climbers, the first day of this climb is the hardest. The climb starts at 2,100′ and climbs steeply up the Eldorado Creek drainage. The first campsites encountered are around 5,400′ with the highest camps, near the east ridge, at 7,800′ – a 5,700′ elevation gain. Most people prefer to camp at the lower camp but if time allows it’s nice to break the approach into two days with the first night at 5,400′ and the second night at 7,800′.
From the base of the East Ridge, the route ascends the southern edge of the Inspiration Glacier, which is aptly named. From there the route climbs the airy, knife-edge ridge crest to the summit. This section of the route is mainly what gives this route its “classic” status.
While the climbing is relatively easy climbers will need to be fit for this climb and comfortable with a little bit of exposure near the summit.
EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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