Similar to the other classics such as Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier, the north ridge combines massive glaciers and steep alpine ice climbing that leads directly to the summit of this 10,781′ volcano.
The season for this route is fairly long with good summer climbing conditions usually starting in May and lasting through September.
The North Ridge of Baker is typically climbed in three days but it also can be done in 2 days if you are tight on time or need to squeeze the climb into a smaller weather window.
Day One is spent approaching high camp on the north side of the mountain. This is usually a fairly short day with approximately 3 hours of walking. This leaves enough time for climbers to work on any last-minute training such as station management or, if time and energy allows, some easy serac climbing on the lower glacier.
Day Two starts with an alpine start before the first light. The start of the climb involves navigating through the broken lower Coleman Glacier. Early in the season, this is fairly straightforward but as the season progresses crevasses start opening up and can provide for some challenging route finding.
Once through the lower glacier, the next challenge will be crossing the bergschrund and gaining the ridge. Depending on snow conditions and time of year this may involve some belayed pitches as well as moving together in “short-rope” mode. Once on the ridge the angles ease slightly but the slopes are still plenty steep.
At approximately 9,200′ the ridge steepens and the real ice climbing begins. This is where the second ice climbing tool comes into play. Typically the first pitch contains the hardest climbing with a difficulty near WI3. The rest of the pitches are closer to WI (actually AI) 2. Depending on conditions the belayed climbing is between 2 1/2 to 6 pitches in length.
After climbing through the steepest portion of the route the last section of the climb weaves its way through the upper section of the mountain via intricate ramps and snow bridges, eventually leading to the summit. The descent is via the Coleman Deming route on the west and then eventually the north side of the mountain, leading back to your high camp.
Day Three - Walk to the trailhead from camp.
Other climbs near Mount Baker of similar difficulty include:
EQUIPMENT LIST – TECHNICAL SNOW & ICE
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
