Only in shape for a few weeks to months just after the highway opens, this is not only a great snow climb but the quickest route to the summit of the South Spire.
While it does offer some steep snow, the bulk of the climb is fairly moderate. With snow and occasionally ice up to 50 degrees, the route is steep enough to keep your attention but short enough to keep the climb reasonable. When approached on skis, this climb offers the bonus of a quick and fun descent back to the car at the end of the day. The route can easily be done in crampon compatible ski boots.
Depending on conditions, we will start at either the Blue Lake trailhead or the hairpin turn off of Highway 20. The approach is often best done on skis, though snowshoes or sometimes mountain boots alone can work just fine.
After caching our skis or snowshoes at the base of the couloir, we will don harnesses, helmets, and crampons and begin the climb. We will typically use a mix of moving together and pitching out leads to reach the top of the spire. There are generally good rock anchors on the sides of the couloir, and good stances to break up the climb. Once on top of the tallest spire in the Liberty Bell group, views range from Silver Star to the East, Mt Baker to the North, Dome Peak to the West and the Sawtooth Range to the south.
From the top, we will downclimb the route right back to the base and our cached gear. After clicking back into our skis, we can either swoosh back down to the car or take a second ski run in Liberty Bowl.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)
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