Forbidden Peak’s North Ridge is a classic mixed route on a remote side of Forbidden Peak. It combines crossing a large glacier, steep snow climbing, and a beautiful alpine granite ridge that takes you directly to the summit. Don’t let the moderate rock rating fool you (5.7). This is a demanding climb that requires well-rounded alpine climbing skills.
The North side of Forbidden Peak has a very remote feel. To reach the north side you will climb up the popular Boston Basin trail then climb up and over Sharkfin Col. From the Col a 100′ rappel drops you onto the expansive Boston Glacier. Depending on the time of year the Boston Glacier can be very broken, requiring a circuitous route to the base of the ridge, or a relatively straightforward traverse of the glacier. Either way, the first night’s camp will be made somewhere near the base of the North Ridge.
Climbing the North Ridge requires carrying camp up and over the mountain. This is the perfect climb to hone your lightweight overnight bivouac skills. Typically the climbers will either carry a super lightweight tent or if the weather cooperates an “open bivy” may be preferred.
The next morning starts with a steep snow climb up the NW face of the ridge. This typically involves a crossing of the bergshrund low on the face followed by five to eight pitches of 40- to 55-degree snow or ice. At the top of the face, the climb turns to rock and follows a solid granite ridge all the way to the summit.
The preferred descent follows the classic West Ridge via a combination of down-climbing and rappels. This descent brings you back to the Boston Basin side of the mountain, finishing a very rewarding circumnavigation of the mountain.
The climb can be done as a two- or three-day climb depending on fitness and skill. For fit climbers that have previous experience on similar routes, the two-day option is a reasonable way to go but expect a long summit day (12+ hours). The price is the same whether you are doing this as a 3-day or 2-day program since both days are quite demanding.
For those climbers on the standard 3-day program, the second night’s camp can be made either on the West Ridge or in Boston Basin.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather forecast, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING: Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES:
OVERNIGHT GEAR CONTINUED:
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT:
OVERNIGHT GEAR:
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