10 Pitch Sport Climb - 5.11a

Goat Wall - Sysiphus

The Goat Wall is a 1500 foot wall that rises above the Methow River. 

Starting just off of the valley floor the rock is a metamorphosed, sedimentary rock. While it doesn’t fracture into clean crack systems, it does offer an abundance of edges that make this rock wonderfully climbable. Many multi-pitch bolt protected face climbs are found here. 
 
The approaches are short and all of the climbs on the wall are bolt protected and offer rappel descents. The user-friendly nature of these climbs makes them great venues when the weather is poor in the high mountains or when you want to spend all day climbing with a minimal approach and descent.

Something many people don’t realize about Goat Wall is that it gets wonderful afternoon breezes that make temperatures pleasant, even in mid-summer. It can be a great option when it's scorching hot on the valley floor.

Established by several NCMG guides, Sisyphus has become a local favorite on Goat Wall. The climb offers 9 pitches of 5.8 – 5.10 climbing with one short 5.11a crux that can be aided through by pulling on quickdraws. One of the things that make the climb so enjoyable is the pitches are quite varied, offering different types of climbing throughout. Every pitch tends to be fairly sustained at its grade making Sisyphus a challenging and highly rewarding route. 

The approach to Goat Wall is relatively short and typically takes between 20-30 minutes. The trail is steep and rocky though. Trekking poles are highly recommended. 

Once at the base of the climb, we switch into rock shoes and start up the first few moderate pitches. The third pitch is the first crux and provides exposed, technical climbing for a full rope length. Several more moderate pitches bring us to the true crux; a thin steep slab with well protected balancy moves. A few more pitches bring us to a giant ledge 2/3rds of the way up Goat Wall where the route ends. From here we rappel back to the base of the climb to where we cached the rest of our gear. 

  • Climbers should know how to belay and be comfortable following rock up to 5.11.
  • We generally leave packs at the base of the climb.
  • Previous experience rappelling is helpful, though not required.

For another day of multi-pitch face climbing that is just a bit easier, consider checking out the Methow Inspiration route, also on Goat Wall. If you are comfortable climbing in this grade range, some of the must-do routes at Washington Pass include the Direct East Buttress on SEWS, and the West Face on NEWS

EQUIPMENT LIST – MULT-IPITCH ROCK DAY TRIPS
 

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Goat Wall Climbing 
  • Index
  • Red Rocks

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.

 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.

 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

 

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Optional: Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants


ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (20-30 Liters)
  • Optional: on-route pack (a very small pack for your essentials on route)
  • Sunglasses
  • Trekking Poles (optional)

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and spf lip balm
  • Water & Food 
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)


TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet (can be rented from NCMG)
  • Climbing Harness (can be rented from NCMG)
  • Belay Device (can be rented from NCMG)
  • 2 Locking Carabiners (can be rented from NCMG)
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Rock climbing shoes

 

$575 1:1

$375 per person 2:1

Location
Max Climbing Grade
Technical Difficulty
3
Physical Difficulty
2

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