Forbidden Peak’s North Ridge is a classic mixed route on a remote side of Forbidden Peak. It combines crossing a large glacier, steep snow climbing, and a beautiful alpine granite ridge that takes you directly to the summit. Don’t let the moderate rock rating fool you (5.7). This is a demanding climb that requires well-rounded alpine climbing skills.
The North side of Forbidden Peak has a very remote feel. To reach the north side you will climb up the popular Boston Basin trail then climb up and over Sharkfin Col. From the Col a 100′ rappel drops you onto the expansive Boston Glacier. Depending on the time of year the Boston Glacier can be very broken, requiring a circuitous route to the base of the ridge, or a relatively straightforward traverse of the glacier. Either way, the first night’s camp will be made somewhere near the base of the North Ridge.
Climbing the North Ridge requires carrying camp up and over the mountain. This is the perfect climb to hone your lightweight overnight bivouac skills. Typically the climbers will either carry a super lightweight tent or if the weather cooperates an “open bivy” may be preferred.
The next morning starts with a steep snow climb up the NW face of the ridge. This typically involves a crossing of the bergshrund low on the face followed by five to eight pitches of 40- to 55-degree snow or ice. At the top of the face, the climb turns to rock and follows a solid granite ridge all the way to the summit.
The preferred descent follows the classic West Ridge via a combination of down-climbing and rappels. This descent brings you back to the Boston Basin side of the mountain, finishing a very rewarding circumnavigation of the mountain.
The climb can be done as a two- or three-day climb depending on fitness and skill. For fit climbers that have previous experience on similar routes, the two-day option is a reasonable way to go but expect a long summit day (12+ hours). The price is the same whether you are doing this as a 3-day or 2-day program since both days are quite demanding.
For those climbers on the standard 3-day program, the second night’s camp can be made either on the West Ridge or in Boston Basin.
EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
