Alpine Rock - Grade II 5.6, 600'

South Early Winter Spire- South Arete

The South Arete is one of the most joyful climbs we have ever done. 

While it has a very moderate rating, many of our guides consider it a favorite climb. The combination of a beautiful, scenic approach, great rock, fun climbing and awesome exposure make this one hard to beat. 

The route has a long season and can be done in the very early or late season with snow on the route for a full alpine experience. During the bulk of the climbing season, it is dry and offers a mix of great scrambling and short steps of low fifth class climbing. It is a great climb for moving quickly in preparation for a bigger alpine objective or having a comfortable relaxed day on a spectacular perch on the highest summit of the Early Winter massif.

This is a climb that can be accomplished by most people, even with a minimal climbing background. While the climbing is fairly easy, it feels real enough and often exposed enough, that you will certainly know you have just climbed a mountain. 

Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Paul Butler
Drew Lovell
Joshua Cole
Steph Williams
Ross Lindell
Nate Pakula
Adam Butterfield

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Washington Pass Climbing
  • Multipitch Climbing Course

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat
  • Sun Hat
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sun shirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants
  • Optional: shorts for the approach hike

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants

ACCESSORIES

  • Backpack (25-35 Liters)
  • Optional: on-route pack (a very small pack for your essentials on route)
  • Sunglasses
  • Trekking Poles

ACCESSORIES continued…

  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Water & Food (see our food  guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Cloth Mask
  • Hand Sanitizer 
  • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay Device
  • 2 Locking Carabiners
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)

  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe

$575 1:1

$375 2:1

Duration
Max Climbing Grade
Technical Difficulty
1
Physical Difficulty
2

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