Starting just off of the valley floor the rock is a metamorphosed, sedimentary rock. While it doesn’t fracture into clean crack systems, it does offer an abundance of edges that make this rock wonderfully climbable. Many multi-pitch bolt protected face climbs are found here.
The approaches are short and all of the climbs on the wall are bolt protected and offer rappel descents. The user-friendly nature of these climbs makes them great venues when the weather is poor in the high mountains or when you want to spend all day climbing with a minimal approach and descent.
Something many people don’t realize about Goat Wall is that it gets wonderful afternoon breezes that make temperatures pleasant, even in mid-summer. It can be a great option when it's scorching hot on the valley floor.
Prime Rib is likely one of the longest, moderate sport routes in America. With 12 pitches of climbing in the mid-fifth class range, the climb is characterized by lots of 5.6 – 5.7 climbing with short 5.8 cruxes interspersed throughout. There is one small 5.9 crux on the final pitch (which is optional). The route provides great views of the Methow Valley and as you get higher, sweeping panoramas of Silver Star Peak and glacier and the North Cascades.
The approach to Goat Wall is relatively short and typically takes between 20-30 minutes. The trail is steep and rocky though. Trekking poles are highly recommended.
If you have a small pack, you can climb with it to carry water, a windbreaker, and some snacks. If not, your guide can easily stash those things in their pack so you can enjoy the climbing unencumbered.
From the top, its many (around 14) rappels back to the base to where we cached the rest of our gear. After a quick hike back to the car, we often end this day with a dunk in the river. This, of course, is optional, though on hot days, highly recommended.
Generally, Prime Rib takes the better part of a day and it's very unusual to have energy left for more climbing afterward. That said, there have been a few occasions where we have finished the day out with a few pitches at Fun Rock for climbers wanting to end the day with a pump.
After climbing Prime Rib, many folks like to get up into the mountains for a climb like the Beckey route, or Southwest Rib of SEWS. For another day of multi-pitch face climbing that is just a bit harder, consider checking out the Methow Inspiration route, also on Goat Wall.
EQUIPMENT LIST – MULT-IPITCH ROCK DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing.
Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip.
All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.
