Starting just off of the valley floor the rock is a metamorphosed, sedimentary rock. While it doesn’t fracture into clean crack systems, it does offer an abundance of edges that make this rock wonderfully climbable. Many multi-pitch bolt protected face climbs are found here.
The approaches are short and all of the climbs on the wall are bolt protected and offer rappel descents. The user-friendly nature of these climbs makes them great venues when the weather is poor in the high mountains or when you want to spend all day climbing with a minimal approach and descent.
Something many people don’t realize about Goat Wall is that it gets wonderful afternoon breezes that make temperatures pleasant, even in mid-summer. It can be a great option when it's scorching hot on the valley floor.
The approach to Goat Wall is relatively short and typically takes between 20-30 minutes. The trail is steep and rocky though. Trekking poles are highly recommended.
Once at the base of the route, we will leave our packs, put on our rock shoes and rope up to begin the climb. The guide will carry a small pack with some water and a windbreaker and you are encouraged to stash anything you’d like in there. The Methow Inspiration Route is the oldest multi-pitch bolt protected route on the wall. It offers five pitches of high-quality climbing in a lovely setting. The climbing is a bit harder than Prime Rib. Most of the climbing is in the 5.7-5.8 range and there are several sustained sections of 5.9.
The first few pitches are more moderate and allow us to get warmed up before the climbing gets more difficult. The fourth pitch, while thankfully short, has a strenuous, steep, bouldery crux that requires some muscle and some helpful coaching. The final pitch is spectacular. Almost a full rope length, it features steep and sustained 5.9 climbing. The best way to describe the signature pitch of this route is “never desperate, but always interesting”.
From the top, we will often enjoy lunch with a great view of the valley before rappelling back down to the base of the route. A bit of scree skiing and we are back at the car.
The Inspiration route generally only takes a little more than half day. Oftentimes we will finish the day with a few bonus pitches at Fun Rock.
A great follow up climb on Goat Wall is Prime Rib 5.9 1. For climbers who wish to turn it up a notch they should consider Sisyphus (5.11) as another option.
If you’re looking to climbing in the mountains at a similar grade, some options include the Southwest Rib of SEWS, and the West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle.
EQUIPMENT LIST – MULTIPITCH ROCK DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
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