Starting just off of the valley floor the rock is a metamorphosed, sedimentary rock. While it doesn’t fracture into clean crack systems, it does offer an abundance of edges that make this rock wonderfully climbable. Many multi-pitch bolt protected face climbs are found here.
The approaches are short and all of the climbs on the wall are bolt protected and offer rappel descents. The user-friendly nature of these climbs makes them great venues when the weather is poor in the high mountains or when you want to spend all day climbing with a minimal approach and descent.
Something many people don’t realize about Goat Wall is that it gets wonderful afternoon breezes that make temperatures pleasant, even in mid-summer. It can be a great option when it's scorching hot on the valley floor.
Prime Rib is likely one of the longest, moderate sport routes in America. With 12 pitches of climbing in the mid-fifth class range, the climb is characterized by lots of 5.6 – 5.7 climbing with short 5.8 cruxes interspersed throughout. There is one small 5.9 crux on the final pitch (which is optional). The route provides great views of the Methow Valley and as you get higher, sweeping panoramas of Silver Star Peak and glacier and the North Cascades.
The approach to Goat Wall is relatively short and typically takes between 20-30 minutes. The trail is steep and rocky though. Trekking poles are highly recommended.
If you have a small pack, you can climb with it to carry water, a windbreaker, and some snacks. If not, your guide can easily stash those things in their pack so you can enjoy the climbing unencumbered.
From the top, its many (around 14) rappels back to the base to where we cached the rest of our gear. After a quick hike back to the car, we often end this day with a dunk in the river. This, of course, is optional, though on hot days, highly recommended.
Generally, Prime Rib takes the better part of a day and it's very unusual to have energy left for more climbing afterward. That said, there have been a few occasions where we have finished the day out with a few pitches at Fun Rock for climbers wanting to end the day with a pump.
After climbing Prime Rib, many folks like to get up into the mountains for a climb like the Beckey route, or Southwest Rib of SEWS. For another day of multi-pitch face climbing that is just a bit harder, consider checking out the Methow Inspiration route, also on Goat Wall.
EQUIPMENT LIST – MULTIPITCH ROCK DAY TRIPS
TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:
A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand. All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable. Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast. With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.
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CLOTHING Head, Hands & Feet
Upper Body Layers
Lower Body Layers
Options Layers for colder or wetter weather
ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES continued…
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
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