Alpine Rock - 5.3

Black Peak - Northeast Ridge

The Northeast Ridge of Black Peak is a quintessential ridge climb in the North Cascades. From the stunning alpine lakes in the basin along the approach to the incredible views on route, it is not one to be missed! 

The route can be done early season, but is most enjoyable from June - September. This climb can either be done in a really big single day or as many as 3 days. During the bulk of the climbing season, it involves some snow travel and a small glacier crossing to get to the base, and offers a mix of great scrambling and low fifth-class climbing. This is a great climb, with outstanding exposure, a beautiful position, and enjoyable scrambling. It is also a great training objective for moving quickly in preparation for a bigger alpine objective like Forbidden Peak.

This is a climb that can be accomplished by most people, even with a minimal climbing background. While the climbing is fairly easy, it is exposed, thus providing a thrill for even the most experienced climbers. The ridge culminates on a beautiful summit with some of the most expansive views of the North Cascades.

Available Guides
Jeff Ward
Larry Goldie
Joshua Cole
Nate Pakula
Adam Butterfield
Kyle Pratt
Chris Bartram
Kiera Magrane
Tavish Hansen

EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING OVERNIGHT TRIPS


TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • NCNP Alpine Climbing Trips (Boston Basin, Eldorado Basin, etc.)
  • Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys)
  • Black Peak (NE Ridge)

 

A NOTE ON EQUIPMENT LISTS: Equipment selection can make or break a trip. Weather conditions can change rapidly and having gear that is a combination of warm, lightweight, and durable is ideal. Taking the time pre-trip to make sure that your equipment meets these standards is worth the effort and sets up everyone for success. In the mountains, it is best to use an integrated layering clothing system. Layers create the ability to dial in what works best for you. Each layer should have the ability to dry quickly, be flexible, and be resistant to water, wind, and abrasions to help you regulate your temperature and not hinder your climbing. 

Please discuss the conditions you are most likely to encounter with your guide in advance of your trip. 

All trips require that you bring adequate food and water. Please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 
  • Sun Hat 
  • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended) or running shoes (route and conditions dependent; check with your guide)

Upper Body Layers

  • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sunshirt
  • Lightweight Fleece jacket
  • Softshell Jacket with Hood
  • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Softshell Pants

Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Lightweight rain pants
  • Lightweight baselayer bottoms


ACCESSORIES

  • Overnight Backpack (40-50 Liters)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Water & Food (see food guide)
  • Headlamp
  • Blister Kit
  • Trekking Poles



 

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

  • Climbing Helmet 
  • Climbing Harness 
  • Belay Device 
  • 2 Locking Carabiners 
  • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)
  • Climbing Shoes (route dependent)
  • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
  • Steel crampons
  • Ice Axe
     

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (3 season, lightweight or single wall)
  • Sleeping Bag (15-30 degree rating, depending upon conditions)
  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
  • Stove (recommend isobutane canister stoves over liquid fuel)
  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
  • Pot
  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs

 

$625 per day 1:1

$425 per person, per day 2:1

Max Climbing Grade
Technical Difficulty
1
Physical Difficulty
2

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